Home Improvement

Installing a New Shower Unit – A successful shower installation requires careful planning and a lot of work. In most cases, you need to do three types of tasks: framing walls, pipe installation, and finishing the walls.

Preparation

First you must decide on the type of shower that you want to install. It is important to ascertain whether the selected bath able to cope with certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Most of the shower unit is designed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as hot water and electricity are kept cold).

It is also important to take into account water pressure and drainage piping and planning to take a shower

Different Types of Shower Unit

Push-on Mixer: hose and spray parts of the push-on shower mixer unit can be connected to the shower faucet to suit your needs, and water temperature can be adjusted via the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and very easy to install. However, although the hose connection that is simple, yet easily dislodged. Additionally, it is inconvenient to adjust the temperature.

Bath / Shower Mixer: Hose and spray of the type combined bathroom with shower mixer taps, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. This is a very cheap option and no additional pipes involved. However, bath / shower mixers also suffer from a selection of comfortable temperature control.

Manual Mixer: Hose and spray units manual mixer shower is part of a wall unit and hot and cold water supply valve connected to a single temperature and water pressure is controlled through one or a variety of buttons (in the bath is more expensive). Although temperature control is much easier in this type of manual mixer, they are more expensive than the previously mentioned mixers. They also require additional water pipes hot and cold piped water supply.

Thermostatic mixer: Hose and spray this type of shower is part of a wall unit and hot and cold water supply valve connected to a single here too. It is complete with built-in stabilizer for the self-adjusting water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. One of the biggest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes convenient temperature control. However, this is the most expensive of the different mixer options.

Power Shower: An electric shower is a unit containing a powerful electric pump that can change both water pressure and temperature. Type of shower can be installed if there is water supply from the cold water cistern and hot water cylinder. An electric shower makes good adjustments to the pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it is not suitable for direct heated water bath or in which water is supplied by a boiler under pressure from a combination of electricity.

Shower Power: A power shower is a dive into the cold water supply and electric water heating. It is important to note that this type of bath will be installed, electric pressure need at least 0.7kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). This unit allows the temperature and pressure to be adjusted via a button. Models with temperature stabilizer better because they remain unaffected by other taps elsewhere used in the household. The main obstacle of electric showers is that the control knob only allows for the option of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperature at higher pressure. This is problematic in the winter season when the spray is often weak and electric water cooler. However, this problem is handled in several models available with winter / summer setting.

Method
Depending on the type you want to install bath, fitted shower heads should be good to avoid contact with water in the bath or tray under the base, or should have a check valve.

Before starting, it is advisable to mark the position of shower heads and controls, and plans to pipe-work involved. In addition, the drainage system to dispose of waste water needs to be planned. Both the position of the cable route and switch shower should also be considered if the unit or electric instant shower is being installed.

Use the instruction manual provided with shower unit to fit the shower control.

Before installation of the pipes that will supply water to the shower system, it is important to cut the water supply. In order to protect the pipeline, they must be given a waterproof cover and is also equipped with isolating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and stick to tidy up the overall look.

Fit base tray, shower, and fittings.

Connect the main shower control to the pipeline that will supply water (This may require a screw thread female adapter).

Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leaks, because some may need tightening.

If you install an electric shower, remember to turn off the electricity supply before making electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there should be guidelines in this guide), power supply can be reactivated.

Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower

Cold water reservoir can be raised to a greater height (sometimes as little as 150mm (6inches)) by mounting a strong wooden support underneath – probably consisting of struts and the board. If you choose this option, the main distribution pipes and also should be raised to meet the new higher reservoir. Alternatively, booster pump (single pump or pump / dual twin) can be installed. Whatever type is chosen, it must be connected to the power supply to operate.

Piping and Drainage

The best way is to use a 15mm diameter supply pipe, and make a run with a bath as short and as straight as possible so that the maximum pressure to maintain and minimize heat loss. Also, by minimizing the use of the right angle to the pipe, you can reduce bottlenecks in the flow of the water supply. You can accomplish this by bending the pipe instead.

Most Common Mistakes

# Violating or ignoring local code restrictions.

# Using the pipes are too small.

# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.

# Do not use tape or compound on threaded pipe joints.

# Not leveling your equipment when installing them.

# It does not install the air gap to fill the office.

# Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the valve cover in place after the wall is complete.

# Not properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut to the compression ring at an angle when the pipe is at the corner will cause leakage.)

# When changing the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the line. This debris can cause problems in other pipelines sink and faucet trim.

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